intricately woven into the history of the fabled valley is the centuries old tradition of producing exquisitely woven shawls . Kashmir owes part of its fame to these masterpieces in fabric both made by hand and loom .
The method in which it is made decides its name; the ones woven on looms ar kani shawls while the needle - embroided ones are Sozni shawls . known by different names such as Tiliwalla. Tilikar for Kani Kar , Kani shawls are worn by many all over the world not just for their warmth but also for the grace they bestow on the wearer .
History is replete with accounts of beautiful Kani shawls produced in the valley .Emperor Akbar's liking for Kani shawls is reflected in the Ain - I - Akbari , an account of the Mughal period in Kashmir (1586- 1752 ).
The text narrates how, mesmerized by their intricate beauty . Akbar went on to become a keen collector of Kani shawls . The Kani shawl is the product of laborious days and a suprising weaving technique . first, a design is selected for a shawl and the colours for the thread are chosen . it is then woven with the weft thrown across the breadth of the shawl .
to arrange colours and patterns , a specialised coded language , known as taleem, is drafted on paper. this language helps position the colour and location of threads - precisely ensuring that the final design which emerges is intricate and exquisite in detail.
the master weavers say the labour necessary to produce a Kani shawl is five times more than would go into Sozni shawl . it is no suprise then that a kani shawl is five times as expensive .
the concentratration that goes into weaving a Kani shawl can be gauged from the fact that an artisan cannot weave more than an inch a day . A Kani shawl is about 1 x 2 metres in size aand it takes two craftsmen nearly two years to complete one . depending on the intricacy of the design , the making time can even stretch to five years . Frank Ames , author of the Kashmir shawl wrote in 1853 that a Kani shawl ordered by the Empress of France took 30 men approximately nin months to complete .
'KANI' is Kashmiri for wooden spool , the main loom element used the most to produce a shawl .
Kanihama , a village is western Kashmir , has mastered the art of producing ad trading Kani shawls over centuries . in an attempt to keep this craft alive , the government is helping sustain 300 looms in Kanihama .
Kani shawls come in varied patterns and de signs . in a doubled - sided or Dorukha shawl , it is difficult to distinguish one side from the other . it has two colour codes for its two faces and the designon one side is reproduced in another colour on the other . The epitome of craft and skill is , however, seen the Aksi (reflection ) shawl . The design on one side is produced by splitting the wrap threads into half , leaving the other side plain or embroidered with another pattern
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